Fashion shows have a notoriety for being a touch Froid, with front-rowers and models the same scarcely breaking a grin. Issey Miyake’s demonstrate the first of womenswear fashioner Satoshi Kondo broke such observations.
The originators were meant to give a ‘feeling of delight’ comparable to ‘the simplicity we feel when a breeze touches our face’, something that the brand’s simple, development empowering and actually creative dress includes.
From the robust rafters of the “Cent Quatre” art house, which for more than a century was home to the capital’s municipal undertakers, dresses were slowly lowered onto models to the ethereal electronic sounds of French artist DeLaurentis.
There’s something universally uplifting about an Issey Miyake show. Models walk serenely along the runway, strolling at times in pairs, intersecting as if pacing down a pavement. The technically crafted ensembles bounce and undulate with their bodies.
Despite the incredible industrial prowess used to design the brand’s garments, there’s a spontaneity behind their forms and bold textures. The ‘Dough Dough’ fabric which creative director Yoshiyuki Miyamae debuted last season can even be molded according to the will of the wearer.
It also featured here in an opening section of grey, blush pink and turquoise coats with scarf details which could be folded dependant on the wearer’s fancy. Elsewhere, dresses and trousers with angular scalloped hems were imagined in black or swathes of paneled color, and blouses were formed from a tessellation of triangular forms, like the brand’s Bao Bao bags.
“I needed to specify the enjoyment of sporting garments and also the joy of movement. So you see the models recreation, almost like in the wind, moving together”, Kyoto-born designer Kondo said of his ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2020 collection.
Best in the show is a grey cocoon coat had a technical padded fabrication, while a series of black and white striped dresses and coats had angular accordion folds which sprang down the runway.
Wearing ensembles with splashes of raspberry pink, lime green, and lilac, models jumped up and every one the method all the way down to enhance the bouncy impact of near-translucent materials and loosely-woven dresses and waved fan-shaped baggage in an exceeding riot of color and movement. Paris Fashion Week runs until Oct 1.